After our lack of energy towards the end of our trip to Dunkerque it was pretty apparent that we could have used a little more rest the night before. That being said, today we met up after classes were finished to take the train home together, and to stop by the SNCF ticket booth at Gare Lille-Flandres hoping to change our departure tickets to Paris. In the essence of saving a little cash we originally opted to take a 7am train. This was partially based on the suggestion by my friend Yann that we come on Saturday morning, and the earlier the cheaper. Anyway we wanted the opportunity do check out the Parisian nightlife, and if we had to leave our house at 6am Saturday morning that definitely wouldn't have happened (redbull's are pretty rare and expensive here). So even though the expectation was to buy completely new tickets and lose the money we had already spent; we decided it would be well worth it (we just got paid).
By luck of the draw we ended up at the counter of a very helpful and patient attendant who was more than happy to do a little research for us, and find an inexpensive train for Friday night. Either he is really good at his job or just wanted to get rid of the confusing Americans, but within a minute he had two or three different options for us. The best part was he refunded the money from our Saturday morning tickets, and by tacking on only nine extra euros we now depart at 9pm and arrive just before 10pm on Friday night. Yann will be waiting to meet us at the Gare du Nord. The weekend can't come quick enough. Oh and another reason we wanted to get a late Friday train is because we are waking up at 3am Friday morning to watch the UO vs. OSU Civil War for the RoseBowl live! LET'S GO DUCKS!
Other than that, this week has gotten off to a good start. The weekend was uneventful and relaxing. Kathryn made a delicious roasted chicken and chestnuts dish, and I assisted with her desert; an unbelievable chocolate cheesecake (picture coming soon). Both of our classes were cut short Today so we were able to spend a little extra time togther this evening. I have my second training session for all the Lycée assistants on Thursday. I'm hoping for two things: The first is that it's a little more informative than the last rendez-vous, and second that the higher-ups aren't too uspet that I haven't played any of their goofy games or sang any songs with my students (what we learned at the last meeting). I just remember my teachers trying to get me to sing in both high school and college; I wouldn't wish that on the 18-23 year olds I deal with. Then again, since I only see 2-4 students at a time we could probably get a good round of "row-row-row your boat" going.
A bientôt,
-Jordan and Kathryn
Monday, November 30, 2009
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Giving Thanks in Dunkerque
Our weekend day-trip to Dunkerque started off with a pretty tough decision. Take the 8am train that arrives in under an hour, or sleep in and take a later train that weaves through the countryside stopping in Arras, and arriving in Dunkerque almost three hours later? When we bought our tickets the early train was the obvious choice. Come 6am Saturday morning; we were starting to second-guess. After finally dragging ourselves out of bed we were dressed and out the door to Gare Lille-Flandres with enough time to grab a café and a petit-déjeuner for the ride.
The one hour ride passed relatively quickly and gave us a great view of some interesting little villages along the way. Unfortunately due to the hour I was not in a totally coherent state of mind so I can’t remember the names of these towns, but one had a very cool, medieval-looking city wall around it. Hopefully we can find out the name and spend a day there exploring.
The train made only three or four stops and before we knew it we were descending onto the platform and meeting our “tour guide” Joel. He is actually one of the English Language Assistants placed in Dunkerque. Thanks to the wonders of social-networking and Facebook we “met” Joel over the summer, as I assume most other Lille assistants did (he’s quite a celebrity amongst us), and when we told him we would be in his neck of the woods he offered to show us around.
First up on our agenda (as we had previously discussed due to the hour of our arrival) was to find somewhere to grab a grand-café and energize for the day. Unfortunately the place Joel had in mind was closed so we settled for an untested café around the corner. The coffee tasted of “le jus des chaussettes” (the French expression for coffee lacking in strength). However, it was strong enough to get the job done, and we were soon heading towards one of the few things this town has that Lille does not…the Beach!
Dunkerque is a very nice village with old churches and weekly town markets, but we have all those things in Lille too. Our goal was to have plenty of face time with the sand and surf. Joel did not disappoint. He told us that Dunkerque is quite famous for its ruins of old Nazi war bunkers set up along the coast to prevent the Allies from invading (lot of good that did). They were a good distance down the “boardwalk” of the town so we started off in their general direction while enjoying the scenery, shops, brasseries and dunes that lined the coast. One thing particularly surprising/unusual about Dunkerque was that while walking along the coast there was no salty, ocean-air smell like I remember from the Pacific coast in Oregon or the Atlantic coast in Kiawah. Maybe it has something to do with its proximity to England?
Joel had mentioned that we were in for a bit of a walk to view these bunkers, but we weren’t exactly prepared for the hike ahead of us. Luckily, other than about 5-10min of dark overcast clouds, the weather was sunny and warm, and the coastline was quite beautiful so the hour-plus journey passed without much notice. As with many other unprotected structures in France, the bunkers were covered in graffiti and in a rather run-down state. This of course is to be expected after 60 or so years of dune erosion and little to no maintenance.
We hiked all around the bunkers; peering inside now and then trying to imagine what it was like back in WWI and WWII when they would have been crawling with Krauts on high alert from what they thought was an imminent threat of attack from Britain (Joel told us that in actuality the Allies quite were aware the Germans expected a Dunkerque invasion. They stationed mock-battalions and inflatable tanks across the channel to trick them, and attacked at the beaches in Normandy). It was a great adventure climbing all around the headquarters of the German military, but was a little uncomfortable seeing as I was wearing dress shoes in anticipation of our social gathering that evening.
The beach walk and bunker exploration took up a good chunk of our day. On the walk back we stopped at a beachside restaurant for refreshments and crêpe aux sucre. By the time we made it back around Joel’s apartment we had just enough time to pick-up some drinks for the dinner, meet the other assistants living at his school, and head out the door to a Lille-Assistant Pre-Thanksgiving dinner prepared by a couple girls also stationed in the city.
The apartment we met at was being renovated so it was a little messy, and we were confined to the kitchen/dining room area. Even with the crowd of assistants everyone was able to find adequate space to eat. The food was ready when we arrived, and we chowed down on rustic salad with strawberries and walnuts, two kinds of potatoes (roasted and mashed), baked turkey breasts, stuffing, and covered it all with what looked like country-style gravy minus the sausage. I’m guessing everyone was as hungry as Kathryn and I because once the food was served there was about ten minutes of silence in the room of close to 20 people before the wine started flowing, and conversations picked back up.
Kathryn and I had been asked to bring some bottles of wine for the dinner so we decided to go with some of Carrefour’s recommendations. We brought two bottles of red, a bottle of rose and a bottle of a specialty hard apple cider from the Northern regions of France. Now I know it’s not very exciting to read about what we brought to drink, but I mention this for a very important reason. The highlight of my night came at the expense of the hard cider. Apparently in the hustle and bustle of transporting these beverages from Lille to Dunkerque they sustained periods of turbulence. This went un-noticed, and halfway through the dinner when Kathryn asked me to get the cider out of the fridge and pour a couple glasses, I didn’t think twice.
The cider is bottled in the same fashion as champagne, and as I slowly twisted off the metal casing, I failed to realize how much stress the cork was putting on it. As the metal tie was removed the cork exploded out of the bottle with a loud pop, missed cracking me in the head by mere centimeters (I could feel it nick the hair on my forehead), slammed off the 15ft. ceiling and bounced back off the top of my head. All I can say is it scared the bejesus out of me. The force of the cork coming out of the bottle easily could have knocked out an eye, or possibly broken my nose if I had the bottle positioned differently. My heart was pounding for a good five minutes or so after that one. The rest of the evening was spent drinking wine and getting to know some of the other assistants. Come 8pm Joel took us back to the train station so we could catch our ride home. It was a great day mostly thanks to our gracious guide and hosts (thanks again Joel). Also, since we spent the majority of the day walking to and from the bunkers we missed out on a couple of sights in the city center itself so we may have to make another trip out there sometime in the future.
Sunday was half spent recovering, and half spent wandering around the beginnings of the Christmas Marche going up in the Centre-Ville of Lille. They are turning on the Christmas lights that decorate the main streets. Garlands are being strung up between the buildings, and in the Grand-Place and Place de Thêatre they have erected a giant Ferris wheel, and a Merry-Go-Round. We have also been told that there is an ice rink in one of the squares, but we haven’t been able to locate it just yet. As we get closer to La Fête de Noël the streets will become lined with all types of vendors, and we are looking forward to going up in the wheel. It’s higher than the tallest church spire by a good 4 stories, and supposedly offers an unparalleled view of the city we call home. Let’s just hope they don’t charge 20euros a person for a ride!
A bientôt,
-Jordan and Kathryn
P.S. - Paris next weekend!
The one hour ride passed relatively quickly and gave us a great view of some interesting little villages along the way. Unfortunately due to the hour I was not in a totally coherent state of mind so I can’t remember the names of these towns, but one had a very cool, medieval-looking city wall around it. Hopefully we can find out the name and spend a day there exploring.
The train made only three or four stops and before we knew it we were descending onto the platform and meeting our “tour guide” Joel. He is actually one of the English Language Assistants placed in Dunkerque. Thanks to the wonders of social-networking and Facebook we “met” Joel over the summer, as I assume most other Lille assistants did (he’s quite a celebrity amongst us), and when we told him we would be in his neck of the woods he offered to show us around.
First up on our agenda (as we had previously discussed due to the hour of our arrival) was to find somewhere to grab a grand-café and energize for the day. Unfortunately the place Joel had in mind was closed so we settled for an untested café around the corner. The coffee tasted of “le jus des chaussettes” (the French expression for coffee lacking in strength). However, it was strong enough to get the job done, and we were soon heading towards one of the few things this town has that Lille does not…the Beach!
Dunkerque is a very nice village with old churches and weekly town markets, but we have all those things in Lille too. Our goal was to have plenty of face time with the sand and surf. Joel did not disappoint. He told us that Dunkerque is quite famous for its ruins of old Nazi war bunkers set up along the coast to prevent the Allies from invading (lot of good that did). They were a good distance down the “boardwalk” of the town so we started off in their general direction while enjoying the scenery, shops, brasseries and dunes that lined the coast. One thing particularly surprising/unusual about Dunkerque was that while walking along the coast there was no salty, ocean-air smell like I remember from the Pacific coast in Oregon or the Atlantic coast in Kiawah. Maybe it has something to do with its proximity to England?
Joel had mentioned that we were in for a bit of a walk to view these bunkers, but we weren’t exactly prepared for the hike ahead of us. Luckily, other than about 5-10min of dark overcast clouds, the weather was sunny and warm, and the coastline was quite beautiful so the hour-plus journey passed without much notice. As with many other unprotected structures in France, the bunkers were covered in graffiti and in a rather run-down state. This of course is to be expected after 60 or so years of dune erosion and little to no maintenance.
We hiked all around the bunkers; peering inside now and then trying to imagine what it was like back in WWI and WWII when they would have been crawling with Krauts on high alert from what they thought was an imminent threat of attack from Britain (Joel told us that in actuality the Allies quite were aware the Germans expected a Dunkerque invasion. They stationed mock-battalions and inflatable tanks across the channel to trick them, and attacked at the beaches in Normandy). It was a great adventure climbing all around the headquarters of the German military, but was a little uncomfortable seeing as I was wearing dress shoes in anticipation of our social gathering that evening.
The beach walk and bunker exploration took up a good chunk of our day. On the walk back we stopped at a beachside restaurant for refreshments and crêpe aux sucre. By the time we made it back around Joel’s apartment we had just enough time to pick-up some drinks for the dinner, meet the other assistants living at his school, and head out the door to a Lille-Assistant Pre-Thanksgiving dinner prepared by a couple girls also stationed in the city.
The apartment we met at was being renovated so it was a little messy, and we were confined to the kitchen/dining room area. Even with the crowd of assistants everyone was able to find adequate space to eat. The food was ready when we arrived, and we chowed down on rustic salad with strawberries and walnuts, two kinds of potatoes (roasted and mashed), baked turkey breasts, stuffing, and covered it all with what looked like country-style gravy minus the sausage. I’m guessing everyone was as hungry as Kathryn and I because once the food was served there was about ten minutes of silence in the room of close to 20 people before the wine started flowing, and conversations picked back up.
Kathryn and I had been asked to bring some bottles of wine for the dinner so we decided to go with some of Carrefour’s recommendations. We brought two bottles of red, a bottle of rose and a bottle of a specialty hard apple cider from the Northern regions of France. Now I know it’s not very exciting to read about what we brought to drink, but I mention this for a very important reason. The highlight of my night came at the expense of the hard cider. Apparently in the hustle and bustle of transporting these beverages from Lille to Dunkerque they sustained periods of turbulence. This went un-noticed, and halfway through the dinner when Kathryn asked me to get the cider out of the fridge and pour a couple glasses, I didn’t think twice.
The cider is bottled in the same fashion as champagne, and as I slowly twisted off the metal casing, I failed to realize how much stress the cork was putting on it. As the metal tie was removed the cork exploded out of the bottle with a loud pop, missed cracking me in the head by mere centimeters (I could feel it nick the hair on my forehead), slammed off the 15ft. ceiling and bounced back off the top of my head. All I can say is it scared the bejesus out of me. The force of the cork coming out of the bottle easily could have knocked out an eye, or possibly broken my nose if I had the bottle positioned differently. My heart was pounding for a good five minutes or so after that one. The rest of the evening was spent drinking wine and getting to know some of the other assistants. Come 8pm Joel took us back to the train station so we could catch our ride home. It was a great day mostly thanks to our gracious guide and hosts (thanks again Joel). Also, since we spent the majority of the day walking to and from the bunkers we missed out on a couple of sights in the city center itself so we may have to make another trip out there sometime in the future.
Sunday was half spent recovering, and half spent wandering around the beginnings of the Christmas Marche going up in the Centre-Ville of Lille. They are turning on the Christmas lights that decorate the main streets. Garlands are being strung up between the buildings, and in the Grand-Place and Place de Thêatre they have erected a giant Ferris wheel, and a Merry-Go-Round. We have also been told that there is an ice rink in one of the squares, but we haven’t been able to locate it just yet. As we get closer to La Fête de Noël the streets will become lined with all types of vendors, and we are looking forward to going up in the wheel. It’s higher than the tallest church spire by a good 4 stories, and supposedly offers an unparalleled view of the city we call home. Let’s just hope they don’t charge 20euros a person for a ride!
A bientôt,
-Jordan and Kathryn
P.S. - Paris next weekend!
Labels:
Beach,
Christmas Market,
Dunkerque,
Facebook,
Ferris Wheel,
Hard Cider,
Nazi Bunkers,
Thanksgiving
Monday, November 23, 2009
La Semaine Dernière
Surprisingly it took almost two whole months, but Kathryn and I finally witnessed our first car accident. We were walking home from the Carrefour after doing a little grocery shopping, when a car driving down the Grand Boulevard turned right, and cut off another car going straight through a green light. I say "surprisingly" because the French are not the most observant drivers in the world. They don't seem to be as bad/reckless as Greek drivers, but they have their fair share of problems (to put it lightly). They seem to have the biggest problems when they're required to make some sort of tactical decision. By that I mean they are fine going straight, but if they have to: slow down for pedestrians, or turn, or even just cross an intersection, you better keep your eyes open. Even if the cross-walk shows the little green man (signifying that it is ok to cross) that apparently means nothing to the French. That is why we figured the person to blame was the turning car rather than the one going straight. I'm sure this will be the first of many to come.
We also had our "visite medicale" on Friday to get a check-up, and be declared eligible for health insurance. Kathryn and I passed with flying colors despite the fact that Kathryn has been sick too many times to count since arriving (she's fine now). They gave us chest x-rays, measured our height and weight, and tested our eye sight. I guess they were a little surprised by how big and strong I am (the French are known more for their food than their athletes for a reason) because they also checked my blood sugar to make sure I didn't have diabetes (I don't). They didn't check anyone elses. Once we were given the O.K. we got our passports stamped and they glued in our "carte de sejour" so we are official French residents for this year, and entitled to all their social security benefits. It also means that we can come and go from the country as we please without having to jump through any bureaucratic hoops, and we will not have to notify our schools or the Rectorat before leaving to come home to Chicago for Christmas!
After we got all our paperwork filled out by the doctors, we took the tramway to Gare Lille-Flandres and purchased train tickets for our upcoming trips to Dunkerque (where we went this past weekend) and Paris (the first weekend in December). Dunkerque was so much fun. We did a ton of walking, and got to have a little Thanksgiving meal with some of the other language assistants teaching in that city. I plan on writing a seperate blog about that trip when I have a little more time to spare, and we get the pictures off the camera and onto the computer. Check back soon!
A bientôt,
-Jordan and Kathryn
We also had our "visite medicale" on Friday to get a check-up, and be declared eligible for health insurance. Kathryn and I passed with flying colors despite the fact that Kathryn has been sick too many times to count since arriving (she's fine now). They gave us chest x-rays, measured our height and weight, and tested our eye sight. I guess they were a little surprised by how big and strong I am (the French are known more for their food than their athletes for a reason) because they also checked my blood sugar to make sure I didn't have diabetes (I don't). They didn't check anyone elses. Once we were given the O.K. we got our passports stamped and they glued in our "carte de sejour" so we are official French residents for this year, and entitled to all their social security benefits. It also means that we can come and go from the country as we please without having to jump through any bureaucratic hoops, and we will not have to notify our schools or the Rectorat before leaving to come home to Chicago for Christmas!
After we got all our paperwork filled out by the doctors, we took the tramway to Gare Lille-Flandres and purchased train tickets for our upcoming trips to Dunkerque (where we went this past weekend) and Paris (the first weekend in December). Dunkerque was so much fun. We did a ton of walking, and got to have a little Thanksgiving meal with some of the other language assistants teaching in that city. I plan on writing a seperate blog about that trip when I have a little more time to spare, and we get the pictures off the camera and onto the computer. Check back soon!
A bientôt,
-Jordan and Kathryn
Labels:
car crash,
French drivers,
health insurance,
medical visit
Monday, November 16, 2009
Workin' Hard and Hardly Workin'
Compared to my job prior to arriving in France (~50 hours a week, all nights and weekends) this teaching gig is cake. That being said, it is getting a little more complicated now that I have run through all the students who actually know/want to speak English. Originally I was under the impression that classes would be mixed in terms of the levels of English spoken amongst the students. This assumption was made based on the first couple weeks of teaching, and the composition of the students that were sent to my room. Starting last week I have come to the realization that the teachers were just cutting me a little slack by sending in all of the best English speakers first. Some students (2-3 in each class tops) really have a knack for the language, and all the others have either subscribed to the notion that they are terrible and will never improve, or they just don't care. Some of the English professors have told me that many students do not see the point to learning English; their reasoning being that they never plan to travel to England. Therefore, many never show up to their language classes and fail, or they squeak by with minimum marks and are eventually denied job after job for not having the required proficiency.
Consequently I am beginning to have a new found respect for all those teachers that had to put up with me and my friends over the years. We were rarely the worst students in class, but there were a few that didn't exactly "capture our attention." Personally I could care less whether a student wants to learn English or not. What I do know is that they are required by the French Government to take the class starting usually at the Middle School level. To remind you, I am working with students currently studying for their electro-technical/engineering BTS exam. (A BTS exam roughly translates into a two year study program for: An Advanced Vocational Training Certificate) These students are between the ages of 17 and 24, and all of them have received their Baccalauréate (high school diploma). They have an AVERAGE of eight years of English study, yet many still do not understand me when I ask: "how...was...your...weekend?" Even if they don't understand the "how was your" part of the question week-end is the same in French as in English. I’m lost.
Now, I had some classes in high school and college that I struggled with mightily and therefore did not put forth adequate effort. These were mainly math based classes. But no matter what, if I was forced to take introductory algebra for EIGHT straight years I would eventually know what (x) equaled, and why they use letters instead of numbers! So...long story short...the past two weeks have been a little trying.
Lycée Baggio is divided into two departments: the technical school, and the professional school. At the moment I am the only English assistant, and I work exclusively in the technical school. This is why all the students I work with are: (1.) Studying for their engineering degrees, and (2.) All male. There are ten English professors that I am assisting, and last week they all wanted a piece of me. I probably worked 14 or 15 hours even though I can only get paid for twelve (It would be different if I was a European Union citizen). The heads of the program, who led our training sessions, have made it clear that it is "interdit" for us to do this because we wont be paid, but I really don't care. Every now and then I can put in an extra hour with a class if it will help out a teacher. New classes are the most fun anyway beacuse kids are excited for the opportunity to talk with an American English speaker (they don't seem to care too much for the British). Many times the students leading our discussions are the ones who never say a word in class. These are without a doubt the best since it gives me the opportunity to talk about Chicago, the U.S. and my interests (oh and almost every class has asked if I own a gun).
This week should be a little calmer. I am back on my normal schedule with the exception of Friday: Mon. 2-4pm, Tues. 2-4pm, Wed. off, Thurs. 9am-5pm (the toughest day due to a 4 hour break from noon to 4pm), and Friday normally is from 8am-noon, but we have been scheduled by the French Government to go see the doctor to get a check-up. This will complete the final stages in preparation to receive our FREE government/socialist/communist healthcare! I have also taken on a side project for one of the math teachers at Baggio. He wrote a paper, in French, on Numbers Theory (whatever that is) and was contracted by an English math publication to translate it. No, I will not be doing the translating. I have forgotten every math term I ever learned outside of the basics (addition, subtraction, multiplication and division). He has already done the translation. My job is to read through it, and make sure all the colloquialisms and sentence structures make sense. It's an easy read since each page is taken up primarily with mathematical equations (which I am not responsible to check), and I will earn almost an entire month's salary in extra travel income! All I can hope for now is that the dollar keeps crashing so that if I return to the States with any extra Euros I might double my money.
This weekend Kathryn and I are going to explore the town of Dunkerque on the coast, and meet up with some of the other English assistants there to put together a little Thanksgiving Dinner. We are very excited for the opportunity to do a little socializing with other English speakers. Also, for the first weekend in December we are taking a trip to Paris to see my old friend Yann, and explore the differences in Parisian nightlife and culture. Then it's home to Chicago! It is unbelievable how quickly, and slowly time is passing. We have already been here for a month and a half, and at the same time we have only been here for a month and a half. I can't wait to see what else is in our future. Where's Miss Cleo when you need her?
A bientôt,
-Jordan
Consequently I am beginning to have a new found respect for all those teachers that had to put up with me and my friends over the years. We were rarely the worst students in class, but there were a few that didn't exactly "capture our attention." Personally I could care less whether a student wants to learn English or not. What I do know is that they are required by the French Government to take the class starting usually at the Middle School level. To remind you, I am working with students currently studying for their electro-technical/engineering BTS exam. (A BTS exam roughly translates into a two year study program for: An Advanced Vocational Training Certificate) These students are between the ages of 17 and 24, and all of them have received their Baccalauréate (high school diploma). They have an AVERAGE of eight years of English study, yet many still do not understand me when I ask: "how...was...your...weekend?" Even if they don't understand the "how was your" part of the question week-end is the same in French as in English. I’m lost.
Now, I had some classes in high school and college that I struggled with mightily and therefore did not put forth adequate effort. These were mainly math based classes. But no matter what, if I was forced to take introductory algebra for EIGHT straight years I would eventually know what (x) equaled, and why they use letters instead of numbers! So...long story short...the past two weeks have been a little trying.
Lycée Baggio is divided into two departments: the technical school, and the professional school. At the moment I am the only English assistant, and I work exclusively in the technical school. This is why all the students I work with are: (1.) Studying for their engineering degrees, and (2.) All male. There are ten English professors that I am assisting, and last week they all wanted a piece of me. I probably worked 14 or 15 hours even though I can only get paid for twelve (It would be different if I was a European Union citizen). The heads of the program, who led our training sessions, have made it clear that it is "interdit" for us to do this because we wont be paid, but I really don't care. Every now and then I can put in an extra hour with a class if it will help out a teacher. New classes are the most fun anyway beacuse kids are excited for the opportunity to talk with an American English speaker (they don't seem to care too much for the British). Many times the students leading our discussions are the ones who never say a word in class. These are without a doubt the best since it gives me the opportunity to talk about Chicago, the U.S. and my interests (oh and almost every class has asked if I own a gun).
This week should be a little calmer. I am back on my normal schedule with the exception of Friday: Mon. 2-4pm, Tues. 2-4pm, Wed. off, Thurs. 9am-5pm (the toughest day due to a 4 hour break from noon to 4pm), and Friday normally is from 8am-noon, but we have been scheduled by the French Government to go see the doctor to get a check-up. This will complete the final stages in preparation to receive our FREE government/socialist/communist healthcare! I have also taken on a side project for one of the math teachers at Baggio. He wrote a paper, in French, on Numbers Theory (whatever that is) and was contracted by an English math publication to translate it. No, I will not be doing the translating. I have forgotten every math term I ever learned outside of the basics (addition, subtraction, multiplication and division). He has already done the translation. My job is to read through it, and make sure all the colloquialisms and sentence structures make sense. It's an easy read since each page is taken up primarily with mathematical equations (which I am not responsible to check), and I will earn almost an entire month's salary in extra travel income! All I can hope for now is that the dollar keeps crashing so that if I return to the States with any extra Euros I might double my money.
This weekend Kathryn and I are going to explore the town of Dunkerque on the coast, and meet up with some of the other English assistants there to put together a little Thanksgiving Dinner. We are very excited for the opportunity to do a little socializing with other English speakers. Also, for the first weekend in December we are taking a trip to Paris to see my old friend Yann, and explore the differences in Parisian nightlife and culture. Then it's home to Chicago! It is unbelievable how quickly, and slowly time is passing. We have already been here for a month and a half, and at the same time we have only been here for a month and a half. I can't wait to see what else is in our future. Where's Miss Cleo when you need her?
A bientôt,
-Jordan
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Northern Hospitality
In the month or so leading up to our departure for Lille I had planned on cracking open my old French language books to begin brushing up. That never happened. I was too preoccupied spending time with friends, having every one of my favorite Chicago foods (that I knew I would have no chance of eating here in France), and moving all the crap from my apartment out from our front living room and into the attic. Before I knew it I was packed and on the plane to Oregon for one last slice of Americana before venturing into the unknown land of Nord-Pas de Calais France.
At the end of the summer our friend Benoit and his girlfriend Fanny came to visit us in Chicago, and I learned two very important bits of information. One was that there is still a significant amount of the eight years of the French classes I took rattling around in my brain somewhere; I just need to tap back into it. The second was that even though that knowledge is there, it wasn't near the level I would need to be at for living in France. I arrived in Lille a little apprehensive about my language skills. Of course the best way to improve is total immersion, and after only a month and a half here I can safely say we are both on our way to becoming as close to fluent as possible by the end of this year.
Kathryn never skipped a beat. Other than the very first day we arrived, when we were both too tired to even understand English, her French (to my ears anyway) is flawless. She is able to stand in front of 20-30 insane, out-of-control 7-10 year olds and conduct forty-five minute English classes almost entirely in French. I have tried not to default to her too often when we are out, but I do know if there is a word I don't understand or cannot remember she will have it for me. At the very least, I know I am better at French than almost all of the students I have been working with are at English. If they do not know the translation of some French word into English I usually have an answer for them (even though they ask each other and not me because the teachers all told them I do not speak French).
Our oral and comprehension skills have been greatly ushered along by the teachers at our schools. On my first day of class I was asked what language I would prefer to speak in, and of course I told them French because I needed to improve. So at school, when not in the classroom, I am compelled to communicate en Français. It has also helped because outside of the English department most professors at Baggio don't speak English, and while passing time between classes in the Salle des Profs I only hear French (and sometimes Spanish from the teachers in that department).
We have also done a little socializing outside of school with some of the teachers we work with. First was on Halloween night. Two of the teachers at one of Kathryn's schools (Rosée and Luc) invited us over to their home for afternoon coffee and conversation. Due to some poor time management on our part as well as an unnecessarily long bus trip to get to their house (they live approx. 15min away from us, but to reach their home by public transportation required at two hour journey into the heart of Lille to catch a bus that would take us back the direction we already came.) an afternoon café turned into our first real French social/culinary experience. I say "first" because Lille is not the most French of cities in the country. They have a very large Flemish influence and it has been surprisingly different from what we both remember French life to be like. This is of course because we spent the majority of our previous time in France in the South and the West of the country; things are a little different in the North.
It really was a wonderful evening. For one, there was almost no English spoken the entire night. In fact Rosée majored in Greek while in school and with my [very] basic understanding of the Greek language there was more of that spoken than English. They have two adorable kids, a son who is 7 and a daughter who is 3 or 4. Their son instantly fell in love with Kathryn, and spent the whole night trying to give her hugs and show her his school work and just all around get her attention. We started off the evening talking about music and cultural differences while sipping on a specialty beer from Belgium and eating a delicious homemade chocolate tart. Then we started talking about French food which eventually led to them inviting us to stay with them for a dinner of crêpes. Of course we accepted.
Dinner started off with an aperitif. Then they brought out a large skillet with six small indentations for "do-it-yourself" crêpes. They had a wide array of toppings that included: smoked salmon, ham, sautéed mushrooms, legumes in crème fraîche and little homegrown cherry tomatoes to top it off. As you can guess everything was scrumptious. Throughout the meal we become more confident in our French. This may have been because of our immersion or it may have had something to do with the free flow of wine throughout the evening. Either way we talked about everything from U.S. and French politics to the fact that when they visited England it was impossible to have alcohol as an aperitif. No matter what instructions were given to servers they always brought their alcohol with the meal. They could not understand this, "why would anyone want to drink [hard] alcohol WITH their meal?" they asked. After our dinner crêpes, the meat and veggies were removed, and replaced with homemade confiture of peaches and strawberries, sugar, and Nutella for our dessert crêpes. By the end of the night we were stuffed, exhausted and a little buzzed. Luckily we were still on vacation because when they finally drove us home we crashed in bed hard. They were incredibly nice and have already invited us back for an "authentic" French meal. I guess our impromptu crêpe feast was only the precursor to something a little grander that they have planned for the future. We can't wait.
Our second experience came just last weekend. One of the English teachers at Baggio invited us, and the rest of the English department, over to her home to experience real "Northern cuisine." This again was a fantastic opportunity for us to practice and improve our French, and at the same time get a taste of the specialties that have made this region famous. Once again throughout the night all communication was primarily in French. It was only after we finished off the fourth or fifth bottle of wine and champagne that Kathryn and I began to intersperse English into the conversation (not a problem since everyone there was an English professor).
As with Rosée and Luc, the meal started off with an aperitif, this time of crème de Cassis (a sweet black current liqueur) mixed with white wine or champagne. The first course of our meal was quiche. Actually it was three different quiches. One of a soft Northern cheese, another of different legumes and the third was made with endives. We all got one slice of each (the cheese one was the best). The main course was Carbonnade Flammand which is a relatively sweet stew of beef, beer, lots of onions, and some other vegetables and spices, which is then ladled over crisp pommes-frites. After the dinner was the salad and cheese course. The salad was good, but the main attraction for everyone at the table was watching our facial expressions as we tried the four different Northern cheeses. One was really good, another was decent, the third was edible and the fourth...well...they had warned us about the fourth. It looked similar to what Shrek pulled out of his ear in the first movie to make a candle except it was the reddish-orange color of Lava pumice soap. Even though four out of the six teachers at the table refused to eat it I'll try almost any food once (ex. lamb brains circa Easter '09). One tiny little bite was as far as I could go, and ended up choking it down using the rest of my salad and wine to help diffuse the taste. Kathryn discreetly spit hers out into the napkin. I think everyone got a kick out of watching us try that one.
The final course was dessert. We had a tarte aux pommes, an unusual but tasty brown sugar and cream tart/cake thing, and tiramisu du nord (which just meant extra rum). By this time the combination of food, drink and conversation in French had led to quite extreme physical and mental exhaustion for both Kathryn and I. Throughout the night I had understood maybe 70-80% of everything that was being discussed at the table (not word for word, but I got the gist), as well as participated in the conversations. Not anymore. Even after downing two espressos to try and get back in the game Kathryn and I were in food comas. Luckily the rest of the group was in about the same state. So, that was where were we said our goodbyes and were given a ride home. It was just a fantastic experience not only because of the excellent cuisine (all homemade) but because of the constant exposure to conversational French.
I cannot quantify how exactly my skills improved because of both dinners, but I feel like I gained a better understanding and comprehension of the language in those few hours than I did in the entire two years of French I took in College. It may not have had the biggest impact on my ability to speak, but I can now tell it takes much less concentration and mental straining on my part to understand my colleagues at Baggio. I’m sure improved oral skills are soon to follow.
Anyway today Kathryn and I are enjoying a laid back Saturday spent mainly working on this blog. We are also beginning to plan out some of our future vacations. We found very cheap bus tickets to London for catching our plane home to Chicago for the Fête de Noël. (We are very excited!) When we return we have a 19day vacation in February, and our plan is to visit La Fleche. That is the village where Kathryn spent her junior year of high school, and hopefully we’ll get to Bretagne to stay with Benoit and Fanny for some of that break as well.
And now, after spending the last couple weeks gorging on Northern French delicacies, Kathryn and I are preparing a little South of the Boarder special for tonight: Tacos and Burritos!
A bientôt,
Jordan and Kathryn
P.S. – I’ll try and keep these blogs coming a little more frequently from now on. This past week has been pretty exhausting with work at school. I’ll explain more in the next blog maybe tomorrow or the next day.
At the end of the summer our friend Benoit and his girlfriend Fanny came to visit us in Chicago, and I learned two very important bits of information. One was that there is still a significant amount of the eight years of the French classes I took rattling around in my brain somewhere; I just need to tap back into it. The second was that even though that knowledge is there, it wasn't near the level I would need to be at for living in France. I arrived in Lille a little apprehensive about my language skills. Of course the best way to improve is total immersion, and after only a month and a half here I can safely say we are both on our way to becoming as close to fluent as possible by the end of this year.
Kathryn never skipped a beat. Other than the very first day we arrived, when we were both too tired to even understand English, her French (to my ears anyway) is flawless. She is able to stand in front of 20-30 insane, out-of-control 7-10 year olds and conduct forty-five minute English classes almost entirely in French. I have tried not to default to her too often when we are out, but I do know if there is a word I don't understand or cannot remember she will have it for me. At the very least, I know I am better at French than almost all of the students I have been working with are at English. If they do not know the translation of some French word into English I usually have an answer for them (even though they ask each other and not me because the teachers all told them I do not speak French).
Our oral and comprehension skills have been greatly ushered along by the teachers at our schools. On my first day of class I was asked what language I would prefer to speak in, and of course I told them French because I needed to improve. So at school, when not in the classroom, I am compelled to communicate en Français. It has also helped because outside of the English department most professors at Baggio don't speak English, and while passing time between classes in the Salle des Profs I only hear French (and sometimes Spanish from the teachers in that department).
We have also done a little socializing outside of school with some of the teachers we work with. First was on Halloween night. Two of the teachers at one of Kathryn's schools (Rosée and Luc) invited us over to their home for afternoon coffee and conversation. Due to some poor time management on our part as well as an unnecessarily long bus trip to get to their house (they live approx. 15min away from us, but to reach their home by public transportation required at two hour journey into the heart of Lille to catch a bus that would take us back the direction we already came.) an afternoon café turned into our first real French social/culinary experience. I say "first" because Lille is not the most French of cities in the country. They have a very large Flemish influence and it has been surprisingly different from what we both remember French life to be like. This is of course because we spent the majority of our previous time in France in the South and the West of the country; things are a little different in the North.
It really was a wonderful evening. For one, there was almost no English spoken the entire night. In fact Rosée majored in Greek while in school and with my [very] basic understanding of the Greek language there was more of that spoken than English. They have two adorable kids, a son who is 7 and a daughter who is 3 or 4. Their son instantly fell in love with Kathryn, and spent the whole night trying to give her hugs and show her his school work and just all around get her attention. We started off the evening talking about music and cultural differences while sipping on a specialty beer from Belgium and eating a delicious homemade chocolate tart. Then we started talking about French food which eventually led to them inviting us to stay with them for a dinner of crêpes. Of course we accepted.
Dinner started off with an aperitif. Then they brought out a large skillet with six small indentations for "do-it-yourself" crêpes. They had a wide array of toppings that included: smoked salmon, ham, sautéed mushrooms, legumes in crème fraîche and little homegrown cherry tomatoes to top it off. As you can guess everything was scrumptious. Throughout the meal we become more confident in our French. This may have been because of our immersion or it may have had something to do with the free flow of wine throughout the evening. Either way we talked about everything from U.S. and French politics to the fact that when they visited England it was impossible to have alcohol as an aperitif. No matter what instructions were given to servers they always brought their alcohol with the meal. They could not understand this, "why would anyone want to drink [hard] alcohol WITH their meal?" they asked. After our dinner crêpes, the meat and veggies were removed, and replaced with homemade confiture of peaches and strawberries, sugar, and Nutella for our dessert crêpes. By the end of the night we were stuffed, exhausted and a little buzzed. Luckily we were still on vacation because when they finally drove us home we crashed in bed hard. They were incredibly nice and have already invited us back for an "authentic" French meal. I guess our impromptu crêpe feast was only the precursor to something a little grander that they have planned for the future. We can't wait.
Our second experience came just last weekend. One of the English teachers at Baggio invited us, and the rest of the English department, over to her home to experience real "Northern cuisine." This again was a fantastic opportunity for us to practice and improve our French, and at the same time get a taste of the specialties that have made this region famous. Once again throughout the night all communication was primarily in French. It was only after we finished off the fourth or fifth bottle of wine and champagne that Kathryn and I began to intersperse English into the conversation (not a problem since everyone there was an English professor).
As with Rosée and Luc, the meal started off with an aperitif, this time of crème de Cassis (a sweet black current liqueur) mixed with white wine or champagne. The first course of our meal was quiche. Actually it was three different quiches. One of a soft Northern cheese, another of different legumes and the third was made with endives. We all got one slice of each (the cheese one was the best). The main course was Carbonnade Flammand which is a relatively sweet stew of beef, beer, lots of onions, and some other vegetables and spices, which is then ladled over crisp pommes-frites. After the dinner was the salad and cheese course. The salad was good, but the main attraction for everyone at the table was watching our facial expressions as we tried the four different Northern cheeses. One was really good, another was decent, the third was edible and the fourth...well...they had warned us about the fourth. It looked similar to what Shrek pulled out of his ear in the first movie to make a candle except it was the reddish-orange color of Lava pumice soap. Even though four out of the six teachers at the table refused to eat it I'll try almost any food once (ex. lamb brains circa Easter '09). One tiny little bite was as far as I could go, and ended up choking it down using the rest of my salad and wine to help diffuse the taste. Kathryn discreetly spit hers out into the napkin. I think everyone got a kick out of watching us try that one.
The final course was dessert. We had a tarte aux pommes, an unusual but tasty brown sugar and cream tart/cake thing, and tiramisu du nord (which just meant extra rum). By this time the combination of food, drink and conversation in French had led to quite extreme physical and mental exhaustion for both Kathryn and I. Throughout the night I had understood maybe 70-80% of everything that was being discussed at the table (not word for word, but I got the gist), as well as participated in the conversations. Not anymore. Even after downing two espressos to try and get back in the game Kathryn and I were in food comas. Luckily the rest of the group was in about the same state. So, that was where were we said our goodbyes and were given a ride home. It was just a fantastic experience not only because of the excellent cuisine (all homemade) but because of the constant exposure to conversational French.
I cannot quantify how exactly my skills improved because of both dinners, but I feel like I gained a better understanding and comprehension of the language in those few hours than I did in the entire two years of French I took in College. It may not have had the biggest impact on my ability to speak, but I can now tell it takes much less concentration and mental straining on my part to understand my colleagues at Baggio. I’m sure improved oral skills are soon to follow.
Anyway today Kathryn and I are enjoying a laid back Saturday spent mainly working on this blog. We are also beginning to plan out some of our future vacations. We found very cheap bus tickets to London for catching our plane home to Chicago for the Fête de Noël. (We are very excited!) When we return we have a 19day vacation in February, and our plan is to visit La Fleche. That is the village where Kathryn spent her junior year of high school, and hopefully we’ll get to Bretagne to stay with Benoit and Fanny for some of that break as well.
And now, after spending the last couple weeks gorging on Northern French delicacies, Kathryn and I are preparing a little South of the Boarder special for tonight: Tacos and Burritos!
A bientôt,
Jordan and Kathryn
P.S. – I’ll try and keep these blogs coming a little more frequently from now on. This past week has been pretty exhausting with work at school. I’ll explain more in the next blog maybe tomorrow or the next day.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Amsterdam Part Deux (Beer, Museums, and Beer Museums)
Growing up I was never one to get very excited about going to museums, especially ones entirely dedicated to art. In fact I can remember a specific moment in my childhood, while wandering around the Art Institute of Chicago on a fieldtrip, thinking: “Why on Earth would anybody use up their precious free time wasting hours wandering around a museum looking at paintings? They all look the same to me.” I have since (possibly in the last year or so) grown out of that mindset, and first up on our list of activities for Day 2 was the museum sector of Amsterdam located in the Northern portion of the city.
Well I should say it was first up on our to-do list, our real primary goal was getting some breakfast that in no way resembled the classic French: croissant and espresso. This was made slightly more difficult because we didn’t leave the hotel until about 9:45am. I thought we would be fine (for being on vacation this might have been the earliest I had ever been up and out), but in Amsterdam if you want a good hearty English breakfast you must be prepared to eat before 10am. We finally found a nice place in Dam Square. There was a little breakfast café situated next to a church/museum directly across from Madame Tussauds famous wax museum. The food was filling, and the coffee (like everywhere in Amsterdam) was aweful, but strong. On to the Rijksmuseum!
Three quarters of the Rijksmuseum was closed to the public for renovations. Not worth it for 20euros…On to the Van Gogh Museum!!
The museum was located in the middle of a large open grassy quad, half way between the Rijks and the Concert Hall. There were four floors each dedicated to different aspects of the painter/philosopher's work and life. The ground floor was filled with some of Van Gogh’s earliest works. His initial inspiration came from laborers working in the fields around the towns he lived in. His paintings progressed from individual worker portraits to action stills of their labor in the fields. This was his “Haystack” phase. Upstairs on the second floor was the real collection of the most famous Van Gogh paintings. It was the era when he started realizing his potential, and decided his legacy would be an expansive use of the color spectrum. This was the exhibit hosting works like his world famous paintings of the Sunflowers, as well as the painting of his Bedroom at Arles. As we wove our way around the exhibits and up the different levels we were accompanied by the story of Van Gogh’s life.
It was written in segments on the walls all throughout the museum, composed entirely of passages and quotes from letters sent between Van Gogh, and his family and friends. He was a very intriguing, passionate, and delusional individual. The third story of the museum was totally dedicated to these letters. They had hundreds of the original letters Van Gogh had written translated (he wrote first in Dutch then in French and finally towards his death in a combination of the languages) accompanied by little sketches and drawings that he included about pieces he was working on. This was one of the most interesting aspects of the museum because many of the sketches that he sent along in the letters have never been linked to known Van Gogh paintings. The top floor had a fantastic collection of artwork from artists either influenced by or influential to Van Gogh. This included Monet, Manet, Renoir, Seurat and a bunch of others I can’t remember right now. No cameras were allowed inside so we don’t have pictures of any of the paintings. While we’re on that subject though, something they did allow in the museum was my pocketknife which I had mistakenly forgotten to take out of my coat pocket and leave back at the hotel. The security guards warning, “Just don’t use it on any of the paintings.” I could only imagine if something like that would have happened in the States. I’d probably be blogging from the federal pen fighting charges of suspected “art/cultural terrorism.” It was a great way to kill a couple of hours, and experience some world changing artwork in the process.
We were also given beer along the way, one halfway through the tour along with a presentation about everything from Heineken quality, to tips on determining if you were given beer in a clean glass. Then we had vouchers attached to our admission wristbands good for two beers at the “museum bar” located at the end of the tour, what could be better? In fact I happen to think that is a brilliant marketing strategy for all museums. I would be much more adept to going to museums if I was guaranteed 3+ beers along the way. We learned all about Heineken: how they were started, why they expanded and began exporting, how the beer is made from the time they receive the ingredients through cooking and processing on to bottling and finally shipment around the world. It was an all around great time, and one of the best museums I have ever been to.
The final day of our trip had, without a doubt, the best weather. All day the sun was shining and there was hardly a cloud in the sky. We spent our final hours in Amsterdam wandering streets we had yet to explore, coupled with extended pauses on park benches to relax and watch the crowds. Amsterdam has such an open society, it doesn’t matter what district or area of the city you’re in there will be an assortment of different personalities and cultures. Walking together in large groups were men and women in business suites, tourists on vacation (we heard many from France) hippies dressed like they were on their way to the Eugene Saturday Market, and every ethnicity you could imagine. The highlight of our last day in Amsterdam was one final stop to Bird Thais restaurant for two more helpings of chicken with red curry sauce before the four hour ride back to Lille, and our room in the Cook household in Wasquehal. We have already experienced enough to make this whole assistantship worthwhile, and we still have six months to go. I can’t wait to see what our future holds. It’s starting to look like a second year may be a part of it.
A Bientôt,
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Au Revoir Lille, Hallo Amsterdam
The teachers at my school described French educational system as: working the kids to the bone for a month or so, and then giving them two weeks break to recover. Then starting all over again. I got a hint of this method from talking with the students. When I would ask what they liked to do for fun, they of course had varied responses, but each one ended with the fact that they never had time for leisure activities because they were too busy with studies and homework. I'm guessing that this vacation for All Saints Day was a little more deserved for the students than for Kathryn and I, but I'm definitely not complaining. Therefore, after approximately 20 or so hours of actual classroom work, it was time for our very first European vacation.
This was a rather last minute decision; we got our hotel and train tickets booked just two days before leaving. We had, total, about a four hour trip from Lille to Amsterdam, and we transferred trains in Antwerpen (it could have been quicker, but we got the cheap regular trains rather than the super-fast TGV). We got up early on Monday morning to eat some breakfast and pack because we needed to be at Gare Lille-Flandres at 10am to catch our first train. Public transportation in France is some of the most efficient I have ever seen anywhere in the world. If there is a posted time announcing the arrival of a tram or metro or train, there will be no more than a 1 min difference between the posting and the actual arrival. This was extremely important when it came to our train transfer in Antwerpen. We did not realize until about 3/4th of the way there that our train was scheduled to arrive in Antwerpen at 12:00pm, and the departure time for our train to Amsterdam was 12:04pm. Luckily, as I said, everything runs perfectly on time, and even though we only had 4min to get to the other tracks, we made it with about 45seconds to spare. Other than that slight complication (and the fact that we originally sat down in the 1st class cabin instead of the 2nd class, and were forced to move to a different car), the journey went very smooth, and we pulled into Amsterdam Centraal Station just after 2pm.
When we left Lille the weather was brisk but sunny. We were able to see, as we chugged across the Belgium countryside, the clouds rolling in and the rain beginning to fall as we got closer to our destination. When we finally got off the train there was a pretty consistent rain coming down, and as exemplified by the inordinate amount of windmills in the surrounding villages, the wind was blowing hard. We had brought our umbrellas with, but they were quickly put out of commission by the storm. Kathryn opened hers up only to have it instantly flip inside-out and snap a couple of the supports (this was not too unexpected as we only paid 2euors for them). Living in Eugene for four years, and for Kathryn in Oregon her whole life, there was no way a little rain was going to slow us down. The hotel we stayed at did not begin check-ins until 3pm. Our original plan was to wander around enjoying the sights until our room would be ready. The weather quickly changed our minds, and our number one goal now was to successfully navigate down the winding streets with unusual names, through the crowds of people, to our hotel, staying as dry as possible because we only brought one change of clothes each.
Our number two goal for the beginning of our trip was to get some Thai food for dinner. Now this was not just any Thai food that we were looking for either. For those of you that don’t know, this was my second trip to Amsterdam. When I was studying in Athens I had a 10 day spring vacation and I spent my time traveling between Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin. It was an amazing trip, but I only had about a day and a half there. The highlight of my trip in 2007 was my reintroduction to the world of Asian cuisine. I had been walking around with one of the girls from my program in Greece when she suggested we stop for lunch at this little Thai restaurant we passed. I was hesitant, but she convinced me. Now before this trip I never was a big fan of Asian food. It had probably been 10 years or so since I had last tasted Thai and my memory told me I didn’t like it. My perception changed instantly when the food was delivered. Not only was it the very best Asian food I had ever eaten, but it was one of the best meals I have ever had in my life. Therefore, I was determined on this trip to take Kathryn.
Now there were a couple of major obstacles standing in our way. I could not remember the name of the restaurant nor could I remember the location. The only details I remembered were what I had eaten, that we had eaten in the upstairs section, and that the servers wore bright-yellow, Asian print silky shirts. To say we had our work cut out for us was an understatement.
Our first couple of hours consisted of weaving in and out of different canals, looking in shops and stopping for coffee to perk up. Amsterdam is absolutely beautiful. Each street or canal is distinctly Amsterdam, and at the same time each has its own kind of personality. After wandering around for a couple of hours and getting a good bearing on the city and how to get around, we stumbled upon the Asian district. By this time we had burned off all the energy we picked with the sandwich earlier, and we were ready for dinner. Along the way we had been keeping our eyes peeled for any signs of Thai restaurants, but had been unsuccessful. I was pretty pessimistic about us actually finding the same restaurant I ate at before, and we decided that we would just walk until we found a Thai place that looked good.
Strictly by chance and a couple of random turns down interesting looking streets we came upon a Thai place. We had seen maybe three other Thai restaurants all day…Kathryn called me over to check out the menu…it looked slightly familiar…I looked closer, then peered in the window…there was a staircase in the back…then…a flash of yellow! We had found it!! I was beside myself, it was unbelievable.
The name of the restaurant is Bird Thais; there’s a yellow sign out front and it’s located about two blocks past the Red-light District in what is called Zeedijk. I had the Kai Pad Ped aka, chicken in red curry sauce with bamboo and long beans (same as two years ago), and Kathryn got the Pad Thai. They were both delicious, but the chicken and curry we voted was the best. The portions were huge, and being so hungry we left very little on our plates.
It was already pretty late so we decided to head back to the hotel for a little rest. The plan was to discuss if we would be going out any more that night, and what we planned to do the next day. We concluded it would be best to just get a beer at the hotel bar, and save up our energy for Tuesday.
Now seeing as this is starting to get a little lengthy, and we’re only through our first day in Amsterdam I will stop here, and leave you wanting. Stay tuned for Part Deux (I’ll probably post it tomorrow) which includes beer, museums, museums about beer, and a whole lot more pictures!
We had been discussing plans for our first vacation as far back as, well, probably June when we first found out that we would be getting a break at this time. We had kicked around a couple of ideas (Ireland, Spain, Italy etc...), but as it became more apparent that we would not be receiving our first paycheck before the break we decided on something a little closer to our home base. Amsterdam it is!
This was a rather last minute decision; we got our hotel and train tickets booked just two days before leaving. We had, total, about a four hour trip from Lille to Amsterdam, and we transferred trains in Antwerpen (it could have been quicker, but we got the cheap regular trains rather than the super-fast TGV). We got up early on Monday morning to eat some breakfast and pack because we needed to be at Gare Lille-Flandres at 10am to catch our first train. Public transportation in France is some of the most efficient I have ever seen anywhere in the world. If there is a posted time announcing the arrival of a tram or metro or train, there will be no more than a 1 min difference between the posting and the actual arrival. This was extremely important when it came to our train transfer in Antwerpen. We did not realize until about 3/4th of the way there that our train was scheduled to arrive in Antwerpen at 12:00pm, and the departure time for our train to Amsterdam was 12:04pm. Luckily, as I said, everything runs perfectly on time, and even though we only had 4min to get to the other tracks, we made it with about 45seconds to spare. Other than that slight complication (and the fact that we originally sat down in the 1st class cabin instead of the 2nd class, and were forced to move to a different car), the journey went very smooth, and we pulled into Amsterdam Centraal Station just after 2pm.
When we left Lille the weather was brisk but sunny. We were able to see, as we chugged across the Belgium countryside, the clouds rolling in and the rain beginning to fall as we got closer to our destination. When we finally got off the train there was a pretty consistent rain coming down, and as exemplified by the inordinate amount of windmills in the surrounding villages, the wind was blowing hard. We had brought our umbrellas with, but they were quickly put out of commission by the storm. Kathryn opened hers up only to have it instantly flip inside-out and snap a couple of the supports (this was not too unexpected as we only paid 2euors for them). Living in Eugene for four years, and for Kathryn in Oregon her whole life, there was no way a little rain was going to slow us down. The hotel we stayed at did not begin check-ins until 3pm. Our original plan was to wander around enjoying the sights until our room would be ready. The weather quickly changed our minds, and our number one goal now was to successfully navigate down the winding streets with unusual names, through the crowds of people, to our hotel, staying as dry as possible because we only brought one change of clothes each.
The reservation was at a hotel named the Rembrandt Centrum/Classic Hotel, and it was right in the very center of the downtown district. Even stopping at each street corner to try and find the street names and get our bearings, we made it from the train station to the hotel in about 15min give or take. That was a big relief. Also, as luck would have it, our room was ready and we were able to check in without a wait. The room we were given was up on the top floor of the hotel, it was very clean and we had our own bathroom (I know this sounds pretty normal to many of you, but if you had seen pictures and the reviews of some of the other hotels and hostels we were considering, this was much better than expected). The combination of the luxurious accommodations, with the location, and especially the price, I highly doubt we could have found anywhere better in the whole city.
We were both chomping at the bit to get out and do a little exploring regardless of the rain so we spent as little time as possible in the room. Kathryn had to fix her makeup, and I changed into dry clothes and put my contacts in so I could see while walking around in the rain; then we were back out the door. The rain slowed up while we were in the hotel and stopped soon after we left. We hadn’t really eaten anything all day except at croissant at the Lille-Flandres before we left, and Kathryn had some chips on the train, so our first stop was at a little bar/café just around the corner from the hotel. Kathryn was feeling pretty fatigued from not eating so we split a club sandwich with smoked salmon, which was good enough to hold us over while we searched for our dinner.
Our number two goal for the beginning of our trip was to get some Thai food for dinner. Now this was not just any Thai food that we were looking for either. For those of you that don’t know, this was my second trip to Amsterdam. When I was studying in Athens I had a 10 day spring vacation and I spent my time traveling between Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin. It was an amazing trip, but I only had about a day and a half there. The highlight of my trip in 2007 was my reintroduction to the world of Asian cuisine. I had been walking around with one of the girls from my program in Greece when she suggested we stop for lunch at this little Thai restaurant we passed. I was hesitant, but she convinced me. Now before this trip I never was a big fan of Asian food. It had probably been 10 years or so since I had last tasted Thai and my memory told me I didn’t like it. My perception changed instantly when the food was delivered. Not only was it the very best Asian food I had ever eaten, but it was one of the best meals I have ever had in my life. Therefore, I was determined on this trip to take Kathryn.
Now there were a couple of major obstacles standing in our way. I could not remember the name of the restaurant nor could I remember the location. The only details I remembered were what I had eaten, that we had eaten in the upstairs section, and that the servers wore bright-yellow, Asian print silky shirts. To say we had our work cut out for us was an understatement.
Our first couple of hours consisted of weaving in and out of different canals, looking in shops and stopping for coffee to perk up. Amsterdam is absolutely beautiful. Each street or canal is distinctly Amsterdam, and at the same time each has its own kind of personality. After wandering around for a couple of hours and getting a good bearing on the city and how to get around, we stumbled upon the Asian district. By this time we had burned off all the energy we picked with the sandwich earlier, and we were ready for dinner. Along the way we had been keeping our eyes peeled for any signs of Thai restaurants, but had been unsuccessful. I was pretty pessimistic about us actually finding the same restaurant I ate at before, and we decided that we would just walk until we found a Thai place that looked good.
Strictly by chance and a couple of random turns down interesting looking streets we came upon a Thai place. We had seen maybe three other Thai restaurants all day…Kathryn called me over to check out the menu…it looked slightly familiar…I looked closer, then peered in the window…there was a staircase in the back…then…a flash of yellow! We had found it!! I was beside myself, it was unbelievable.
The name of the restaurant is Bird Thais; there’s a yellow sign out front and it’s located about two blocks past the Red-light District in what is called Zeedijk. I had the Kai Pad Ped aka, chicken in red curry sauce with bamboo and long beans (same as two years ago), and Kathryn got the Pad Thai. They were both delicious, but the chicken and curry we voted was the best. The portions were huge, and being so hungry we left very little on our plates.
It was already pretty late so we decided to head back to the hotel for a little rest. The plan was to discuss if we would be going out any more that night, and what we planned to do the next day. We concluded it would be best to just get a beer at the hotel bar, and save up our energy for Tuesday.
Now seeing as this is starting to get a little lengthy, and we’re only through our first day in Amsterdam I will stop here, and leave you wanting. Stay tuned for Part Deux (I’ll probably post it tomorrow) which includes beer, museums, museums about beer, and a whole lot more pictures!
À Demain,
Jor and Kathryn
Sunday, November 1, 2009
First week of teaching
The first week of teaching was definitely memorable. Mondays I teach at both Turgot and Malot. They are both fairly close to one another; it’s about a twenty minute walk. Both schools are in a “rough” neighborhood. Malot is surrounded by low-level income apartments, but is more open to the public than Turgot. Turgot is fenced in by steel bars and is accompanied by a security guard to provide “order” and act as a position of authority that the kids will listen to, as well as to let people in the gates.
Last Monday morning was my official integration into the normal school week schedule. I started with an early morning class at Malot. I was out the door by 8:15am and made it to the school in a little less than an hour. Once I arrived, an English teacher named Rosee came to greet me immediately. We chatted for a moment in French, and she led me up to her room on the third floor to meet the kids in her class that I would be teaching. The class consisted of 8 and 9 year olds. They all stood up as I entered and were not permitted to sit until the Maitress had given the okay.
The first thing I did to get the kids talking was to introduce myself and get the kids a good idea about where I’m from. I pulled down a huge map of the world and asked the kids if they could find the United States of America. Many believed it was next to Germany. They all laughed. A student eventually found it. Next I asked if anyone had some questions pertaining to my voyage from the U.S to France. They were very eager to ask as many questions as possible. The first class went great!
I had 5 classes to attend on my first day; 2 at Malot and 3 at Turgot. After teaching at Malot, I left for Turgot. The neighborhood consists of mainly immigrants from countries like Algeria and Morocco in North Africa. As I began the 20 minute trek to Turgot, cars honked, and men hollered at me. The icing on the cake was when a creepy man followed me for about 4 blocks shouting “eh sexy.” So at that point I felt completely uncomfortable, and pissed off that I would have to make this walk every week. The man eventually stopped when I yelled, “Arrêtez! Ca souffit maintenant!” (Stop, that’s enough) I later told my contact about what happened. She had taught at Turgot for 7 years so she knew the neighborhood; she suggested I buy mace. My schedule is not set in stone, so I am hoping that I can rearrange it so it won't be necessary to walk from one school to the other. There are Metro stops close to each of the primary schools.
The incidences along the way put a little pep in my step and I made it to Turgot in less time than I anticipated. I met the teacher whom I will be assisting the most. Her name is Natasha. She is really sweet and I am sure we will get along great! I went to the first class with her, initially to observe and then to introduce myself and teach a little. The class went great. The kids were a little wild but Natasha has an extremely loud and authoritative voice. When one of the kids misbehaved she would give them a little talking to, discussing the poor decisions they had made. The day had been very smooth up to that point; that all changed as I went to the last class I would teach for the day.
I went with Natasha who trades classes with other teachers since she is the only English teacher at the school. While I was with Natasha teaching the class, a different teacher went to watch over Natasha’s normal class. It went great until I had to go over to get the other teacher for her to return to her normal class. When I got to the class room, kids were screaming, hitting each other, and all sorts of nonsense. I was in a jungle of animals! The teacher got up and said they were just horrible. She left to get Natasha and discuss what the kid’s behavior was like. I was left alone with these crazy French kids. I was not intimidated though, at least not yet. I told everyone to get into their seats so we could sing a song. The class had been working on one during the week. They followed my directions, but not for long. A little girl, who is a trouble maker, slapped a boy right in front of me for no apparent reason. The boy of course ran up to tell on her. This then coincided with five other kids coming up to tattle on what the others had done. I lost it, after the entire class was screaming. I sat down at the desk and told the children that we were not going to sing the song because they were unable to behave. I continued by saying, "So we are going to sit and wait for your teacher with your heads down on the desks." I had to pretty much shout this, but they finally listened and calmed down until Natasha entered the class. Natasha is a really small and petite lady. She came to the front of the class and told the kids how disappointed she was in all of them. She then spoke to the girl (that had hit the boy) in front of the class, since the other teacher had specifically spoken to Natasha about her behavior. The lecture began with an overall tone of “you are incapable of life.” This was continued by how she can’t say she just doesn’t want to do the homework, life doesn’t work that way. She continued speaking to her about paying bills, and how she can’t just say no I don’t want to pay. The lecture ended that if you keep making these decisions you will end up on the streets alone. Just to keep you up to speed this lecture was given to an 8 year old. It was intense to say the least.
The bell rang and I finally got to leave. The security guard led me out of the school grounds. Jordan called, and after a long day I couldn’t wait to get back to him! We ended up grabbing a hot chocolate on the way home. Chocolate can fix almost anything in my book. Needless to say I felt much better and was ready for the next day of classes.
The week was smooth from there on out. I played a lot of games with the kids. I used flash cards to play games like memory, Bingo (to learn numbers 1-5), and Telephone to learn pronunciation of words. I really love this experience and am learning so much! I just hope I can keep coming up with new and interesting lesson plans for the kids. If you have any games or songs you remember learning when you were little let me know! Anything would help!
-Kathryn
Last Monday morning was my official integration into the normal school week schedule. I started with an early morning class at Malot. I was out the door by 8:15am and made it to the school in a little less than an hour. Once I arrived, an English teacher named Rosee came to greet me immediately. We chatted for a moment in French, and she led me up to her room on the third floor to meet the kids in her class that I would be teaching. The class consisted of 8 and 9 year olds. They all stood up as I entered and were not permitted to sit until the Maitress had given the okay.
The first thing I did to get the kids talking was to introduce myself and get the kids a good idea about where I’m from. I pulled down a huge map of the world and asked the kids if they could find the United States of America. Many believed it was next to Germany. They all laughed. A student eventually found it. Next I asked if anyone had some questions pertaining to my voyage from the U.S to France. They were very eager to ask as many questions as possible. The first class went great!
I had 5 classes to attend on my first day; 2 at Malot and 3 at Turgot. After teaching at Malot, I left for Turgot. The neighborhood consists of mainly immigrants from countries like Algeria and Morocco in North Africa. As I began the 20 minute trek to Turgot, cars honked, and men hollered at me. The icing on the cake was when a creepy man followed me for about 4 blocks shouting “eh sexy.” So at that point I felt completely uncomfortable, and pissed off that I would have to make this walk every week. The man eventually stopped when I yelled, “Arrêtez! Ca souffit maintenant!” (Stop, that’s enough) I later told my contact about what happened. She had taught at Turgot for 7 years so she knew the neighborhood; she suggested I buy mace. My schedule is not set in stone, so I am hoping that I can rearrange it so it won't be necessary to walk from one school to the other. There are Metro stops close to each of the primary schools.
The incidences along the way put a little pep in my step and I made it to Turgot in less time than I anticipated. I met the teacher whom I will be assisting the most. Her name is Natasha. She is really sweet and I am sure we will get along great! I went to the first class with her, initially to observe and then to introduce myself and teach a little. The class went great. The kids were a little wild but Natasha has an extremely loud and authoritative voice. When one of the kids misbehaved she would give them a little talking to, discussing the poor decisions they had made. The day had been very smooth up to that point; that all changed as I went to the last class I would teach for the day.
I went with Natasha who trades classes with other teachers since she is the only English teacher at the school. While I was with Natasha teaching the class, a different teacher went to watch over Natasha’s normal class. It went great until I had to go over to get the other teacher for her to return to her normal class. When I got to the class room, kids were screaming, hitting each other, and all sorts of nonsense. I was in a jungle of animals! The teacher got up and said they were just horrible. She left to get Natasha and discuss what the kid’s behavior was like. I was left alone with these crazy French kids. I was not intimidated though, at least not yet. I told everyone to get into their seats so we could sing a song. The class had been working on one during the week. They followed my directions, but not for long. A little girl, who is a trouble maker, slapped a boy right in front of me for no apparent reason. The boy of course ran up to tell on her. This then coincided with five other kids coming up to tattle on what the others had done. I lost it, after the entire class was screaming. I sat down at the desk and told the children that we were not going to sing the song because they were unable to behave. I continued by saying, "So we are going to sit and wait for your teacher with your heads down on the desks." I had to pretty much shout this, but they finally listened and calmed down until Natasha entered the class. Natasha is a really small and petite lady. She came to the front of the class and told the kids how disappointed she was in all of them. She then spoke to the girl (that had hit the boy) in front of the class, since the other teacher had specifically spoken to Natasha about her behavior. The lecture began with an overall tone of “you are incapable of life.” This was continued by how she can’t say she just doesn’t want to do the homework, life doesn’t work that way. She continued speaking to her about paying bills, and how she can’t just say no I don’t want to pay. The lecture ended that if you keep making these decisions you will end up on the streets alone. Just to keep you up to speed this lecture was given to an 8 year old. It was intense to say the least.
The bell rang and I finally got to leave. The security guard led me out of the school grounds. Jordan called, and after a long day I couldn’t wait to get back to him! We ended up grabbing a hot chocolate on the way home. Chocolate can fix almost anything in my book. Needless to say I felt much better and was ready for the next day of classes.
The week was smooth from there on out. I played a lot of games with the kids. I used flash cards to play games like memory, Bingo (to learn numbers 1-5), and Telephone to learn pronunciation of words. I really love this experience and am learning so much! I just hope I can keep coming up with new and interesting lesson plans for the kids. If you have any games or songs you remember learning when you were little let me know! Anything would help!
-Kathryn
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